Amber in fashion: how does amber inspire modern fashion designers?
For centuries, man has used amber to decorate and enhance the clothes he wears. In traditional folk costumes from the Baltic regions, it was used to decorate buttons, cuffs and collars. In Lithuania, amber was used as an element of embroidery on traditional outfits, especially on dresses and aprons - small pieces of amber were sewn into fabrics, creating beautiful and unique patterns.
Although amber is primarily associated with the Baltic Sea region, it has historically been used in other regions of the world as well. We can find it as a decorative element on Indian fabrics, especially in luxurious saris, as well as in the Berber culture of North Africa, where amber was used as a decorative element in traditional costumes and headdresses.
It is not new to say that amber has its place in fashion history. And how is the situation nowadays?
Amber and ecology
In recent years, interest in natural and ecological materials in fashion has increased. Amber, as a natural raw material, fits perfectly into this trend. Consumers are increasingly looking for jewelry and accessories made from raw materials that are environmentally friendly and have a long history of use. In addition, handicrafts and traditional jewelry making techniques have gained popularity, which favors the use of amber. Craftsmen appreciate the unique properties of amber and create unique artistic works from it that emphasize cultural heritage and craftsmanship.
Fashion designers use amber in modern design, creating jewelry and accessories that combine tradition with modernity. Amber appears in minimalist forms that are comfortable for everyday wear, as well as in more extravagant haute couture designs. Many designers also work with local artists and artisans who specialize in amber processing. This creates collections that are not only beautiful, but also have deep cultural significance and support local communities.
Jewelry is man's best friend
Of course, speaking of jewelry with amber, we do not have to look far. The AMBERIF fair organized in Gdańsk is the largest amber and jewelry fair in Central and Eastern Europe. Exhibitors present the latest collections containing amber, as well as innovative technologies in jewelry design. AMBERIF is the perfect opportunity to see amber in fashion live, both in jewelry and in the context of broader looks.
However, it is worth paying attention to the fact that amber, although not in a dominant role, often appears at the largest fashion shows in the world. The Alexander McQueen collection for the Spring/Summer 2013 season, designed by Sarah Burton, included amber elements in the form of masks and jewelry. Amber was the centerpiece of the look, adding an avant-garde and theatrical character, typical of McQueen. Creations full of expression and emotion were enriched with amber accents that emphasized the drama and uniqueness of the collection.
In turn, Dolce & Gabbana's Alta Moda 2021 collection, a spectacular nod to Italian tradition and craftsmanship, used amber in luxury jewelry, which has been the focal point of many looks. Necklaces, bracelets and earrings with amber, often combined with precious stones and gold, emphasized the richness and sophistication of the collection. These accessories were paired with elaborate dresses and evening wear, which added elegance and class to the creations.
Amber clothes?
Due to its structure, it may seem that amber today is not a popular material for use in the design of strict clothing. However, there are several designers who have taken up this challenge in their careers, and the result may surprise you!
Orlando Dugi, a designer originally from the Navajo Nation, is known for his hand-decorated clothing, including also dresses containing amber elements. His designs are highly decorative, using luxurious fabrics and textures that combine Diné tradition with modern design. A good example is the dress “Alice Gown”. It is hand embroidered and beaded on tulle and silk, with open sleeves and an invisible zipper at the back.
An interesting example is also the Schiaparelli Fashion House, which, during the presentation of its Haute Couture collection for the period Spring/Summer 2024, proposed a dress reminiscent of the interior of electronic equipment. On it we can see elements such as batteries, mobile phones, calculator and other technological components. Amber was used to make small yellow “lights”.
If you are looking for something more elegant, we can not miss the evening dress designed by Diana Walkiewicz presented during the International Fashion Week in Dubai, the Diana Walkiewicz show by DeVu and the International Amber Association (International Amber Association). The dress was made of translucent fabric trimmed with dozens of small amber elements, which scattered throughout the outfit, gave it an unusual lightness.
Timeless value
Amber remains an intriguing element in the fashion world thanks to its unique aesthetics and historical significance. Designers use it primarily in jewelry and accessories that complete looks. You can also find extremely interesting examples of the use of amber in the design of clothes themselves.
Trade fairs such as AMBERIF in Gdańsk confirm that amber has a permanent place in contemporary fashion, especially in jewelry. The collections of brands such as Alexander McQueen or Dolce & Gabbana show how amber can add theatricality and luxury, becoming the focal point of many creations.
Amber has timeless value, finds its way into contemporary designs and inspires designers to create beautiful, culturally meaningful objects.
Sources:
- https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2012/oct/02/sarah-burton-alexander-mcqueen-paris
- http://www.beyondbuckskin.com/2012/08/orlando-dugi-talk-fashion-heat.html
- https://anywhere.pl/64890/nadbaltycki-bursztyn-na-international-fashion-week-dubai/
- https://thefashionography.com/fashion-collections/schiaparelli-haute-couture-spring-summer-2024/
Illustrations:
1st Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda 2021 collection, source: lofficielbaltic.com
2.Dress “Alice Gown”, design: Orlando Dugi, source: orlandodugi.com
3.Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2024 Collection, Outfit 7, source: thefashionography.com
4.Alexander McQueen Ready-To-Wear Spring 2013 Collection, Outfit 10, source: vogue.com
5.Evening dress, design: show — Diana Walkiewicz company DeVu and the International Amber Association (International Amber Association)
6.Fashion show organized as part of AMBERIF Fair, Gdańsk 2024