The Art of Noticing: Emilia Kohut on Jewelry, Luxury and Local Treasures

Introduction

In an extraordinary interview, Beata Bochińska, art historian, author of trend books and president of the Bochiński Foundation, talks with Emilia Kohut, a jewelry designer with fourteen years of experience. In the conversation, they discuss sustainable production, the value of local raw materials and the future of Polish amber industry. They also try to answer the question about the role of jewelry in the modern world and its significance for individual audiences.

‍

Conversation

Beata Bochinska: We meet in your studio, or rather the ION studio, which can be visited by all those who wish, passing through the main street of Gdynia. You can finally see your work live. And you at work too! This is not just a treat for visitors. It reminds me of the concept of open studios in London or Helsinki!

Emilia Kohut: Yes! I see that the people who come here really like it and I have a great opportunity to listen and meet them and understand them better. This is a very interesting experience for me - to see and talk to people who then wear my jewelry every day.

B.B.: How many years have you been involved in jewelry design and where did this decision come from?

E. G.: I have been designing and creating jewelry for about 14 years, when I graduated from the Academy of Fine Arts in Gdańsk, where I defended my diploma, which was the design of very special jewelry with amber. And I have been running my own business since 2012. I have been working under my own name ever since.

B.B.: Not all customers know that jewelry can be roughly divided into several types: unique, that is, individual pieces created by the artist himself, short studio series, that is, roughly repetitive forms (although you will never find two ambres the same) in short series and production, where the series are longer, although the finishing of the jewelry is usually also manual. What type of jewelry do you make?

E. G.: I create unique jewelry, and since last year, when I opened ION, I also produce small and large series. In addition to this, I carry out individual orders for various companies that commission me to produce exclusive promotional items such as pins, gifts and prizes. I am currently working on an order from Coca-Cola, for which I create several hundred special items.

B.B.: Ha! I don't drink Coca Cola, but I would love to hug such an exclusive gift from them [laughs]. And speaking of long series, how many objects do you think you have managed to create and sell so far? And in what markets?

E. G.: Um, I've never thought about it, but I think I've already created a few thousand items, although it's hard for me to pinpoint the exact number of them.

B.B.: You work in the luxury goods industry, you took part in an exhibition that I curated, and it deals with the concept of luxury as seen by the younger generation. Hence my question: how do you define today's concept of luxury? What is luxury for modern man?

E. G.: Luxury is time, balance and health. In the context of luxury goods, this means being able to own items created by creators who act in a sustainable way. It is important to know the person who creates these objects, understand their work process and the energy they put into their creations. Jewelry is a very personal item, intimate, touches the human skin and body. Therefore, I believe that this closeness and understanding is of great importance.

Modern perceptions of luxury have evolved towards greater individualization. Instead of ostentatious wealth, today's luxury focuses on exceptional quality, craftsmanship and authenticity. Customers are increasingly looking for products that are not only aesthetically pleasing, but also created in an ethical and conscious way. I have the impression that the market has matured, or at least part of it, to such a perception of luxury.

B.B.: It's very interesting what you're talking about. Can you describe your typical client? Describe, please, their qualities and the emotions they are driven by.

E. G.: These are people usually associated with art, rotating in a creative environment. They are bold and like to create their expressive image. I say with a grain of salt that my typical client is an architect.

B.B.: People who see, not just look... I understand. And what role, in this context, does jewelry play today? Is it a sign of prestige, a decoration, an accessory to clothing, a way to stand out, or maybe a capital investment? Or something completely different?

E. G.: I think jewelry is something different for everyone, depending on the reason for buying it. Gold and diamond jewelry will always be an investment. Artistic jewelry can also be treated as an investment, just like a work of art. There are also people who treat jewelry exclusively as a seasonal ornament and do not understand buying it elsewhere than in clothing chains. And that's OK too! They are guided by other reasons for buying.

For me, jewelry is an extension of our body. It is in direct contact with our skin, so I design it to be pleasant to the touch and encourage you to touch it. It is important that the jewelry not only looks beautiful, but also is in harmony with our body.

B.B.: If we are talking about the invention of touch, what manual techniques do you use and what materials do you use? Why do you choose one and not the other?

E. G.: At the beginning of my work I worked and experimented with different materials: wood, corian, resins, stones, powdered metals and amber. Amber turned out to be my leading material, connecting all my objects and collections. Currently, I am focusing on the classic combination of amber with silver. My jewelry has become more simplistic and I focus on the story I want to convey. I care about sustainable production and creating timeless, ageless jewelry. I design simple patterns that will be relevant for many years to come.

B.B.: Why amber? It is not usually associated with a young, progressive recipient.

E. G.: I believe in Baltic amber because it is our local treasure, unique on a global scale, possessing wonderful properties such as fragrance, warmth and color. Working with amber is a pleasure, and my mission is to transmit this passion to younger audiences and remind us of our roots, heritage, locality.

Baltic amber is also a material that brings a natural element to my work, combining tradition with modern design. I appreciate it for its authenticity and its ability to attract attention with its natural beauty. By working with amber, I can create jewelry that is not only aesthetically pleasing, but also has a deeper meaning and history. I believe that through my projects, I can spark a greater interest in amber among younger generations, encouraging them to explore and appreciate this unique raw material.

B.B.: Where are you currently looking for inspiration? What inspires you as a creator?

E. G.: I am currently drawing inspiration from my beautiful, modernist city. Every element of architecture and environment can evoke a new vision. The motto of my brand is “The art of noticing”, which encompasses both ideas and creativity. Amber itself is so inspiring and beautiful that I only try to emphasize its natural beauty in a gentle way without disturbing it too much. Then I compose a coherent image of the entire collection, while sticking to the DNA of my brand and striving to harmonize my style. I dream that in the future it will be immediately known that I am the author of the work in question. This is my little “selfish” dream [laughs].

B.B.: To be honest, I think it has already come true! I recognize your objects at first glance, so I guess it's time for another, bigger dream [laughs]. I have one more question that I like to ask object designers. Are you open to working with jewelry manufacturers, or would you like one of your projects to go into more mass production so that it can be accessible to a wider audience? I'm thinking about democratizing design.

E. G.: I have worked several times with major jewelry brands. I believe that the treatment of jewelry on a mass scale deprives it of this “essence”, which is extremely important, because jewelry for me has a symbolic or even magical dimension. I appreciate the idea. For me, the value lies in being able to spend a longer time with a given model, because by manual processing I can give each element uniqueness and unique character. Jewelry for me is not just an ornament or a seasonal gadget. Amber, as a finite source of raw material, deserves special treatment and respect, and we should think more about how to use it.

B.B.: HA! For the elect, not for everyone. It's interesting that's how you see it.

And what is your opinion on the contemporary Polish amber industry? You can hear feedback that it has stopped in development, duplicates typical designs, is not progressive and innovative. What is your opinion on this?

E. G.: I agree that it is essential to introduce an appropriate narrative around it and a current design that will meet the expectations of new audiences. I try to constantly analyze this issue and tell a whole new story, while respecting traditional techniques. This is my idea to save and revive this beautiful raw material, to rediscover it in a modern way.

B.B.: I think we are already seeing the first symptoms of this “new amber”, just as we see the concept of “new luxury”. Surely the market and designers had to catch up with this new, interesting giveaway.

Well, this is finally a moment of great truth: where would you like to see your brand in a few years? What development plans do you have for a brand that has become associated with great amber?

E. G.: I really care about the constant development of my brand, but only to a size that can be called “civilized”. I would not like to lose what I love about my work, that is, I would always like to personally choose each lump of amber and then grind it and dedicate it to a specific project. For me, it is a way to relax and even meditate. I would never want to lose it. My goal is to make amber an integral part of the wardrobe of every jewelry wearer. Even if someone has never worn jewelry before, I would like them to start by appreciating the unique properties that amber carries with it. For me, it is a magic resin that should be possessed by anyone who realizes at least a little how important it is to identify and settle in the place where they live. Let's act locally, let's appreciate amber, because the rest of the world has done it a long time ago.

B.B.: Thank you very much for this conversation. I'm glad you're talking about him like that. Sometimes you have to show something and tell it for everyone to see it again! they discovered. I think that's what's happening right now.

‍

Illustrations:

Facebook Ion-Art https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100054533586081 

‍